Vetements Spring 2025 ready-to-wear collection

Fans of Balenciaga, Barthes and Bathos were well served with the quite entertaining sequel from Vetements that evening. We were ushered into a pigeon-infested corner of a Montparnasse shopping center, filled with the same intoxicating smell that Nicole Phelps had described at the groundbreaking Vetements show at Le Depot almost a decade ago. This once underground brand may now be above ground, but it retains the appearance of sedition.

Travis Scott opened the show in a black painted moto look, the first of many moto pieces to roar by. Gigi Hadid wore a minidress version of the yellow duct tape catsuit that Kim Kardashian wore to a Balenciaga show a few seasons ago. The other difference was that Hadid's tape had the DHL logo on it. You can unpack this for yourself: The Gvasalia saga continues.

And further. The collection went through several chapters with looks that reflected themes from previous collections here and at Balenciaga. There were some cool things underneath all the self-referential fraternal trolling — and Carmen Kass' pregnant runway walk was great to watch — but watching it often felt like eavesdropping on a one-sided argument.